Trend Forecast - Spring 2017

 

Good news folks, winter is almost over and I have got some great new tips for Spring/Summer.  These tips are from a series of curated documents that have been compiled from the likes of Pitti Uomo, Milano Unica and Premiere Vision, the world's top 3 fashion events for menswear. 

With spring just around the corner, now is the perfect time to think about the trends and your wardrobe for the spring season. If you are heading to the Spring Racing Carnival, come in for a chat at my Bourke St studio to ensure your next suit if perfectly tailored for your event.  I hope some of these looks inspire you, as they have me.

Personally, I recommend choosing your suit first then accompanying accessories such as pocket squares and shoes later on. This makes the outfit more cohesive and ensures you’re ready for the races! 

Some things to remember: appropriate, scuff-free and comfortable footwear. You will be on your feet all day. Wear shirts with a collar. Leave your cravats at home.

 


The Great Outdoors

During fashion week, labels looked to the outdoors and investigated a utilitarian-esque wardrobe. Designers such as Prada, Nasir Mazhar, Moncler Gamme bleu took to the beaten road with windbreakers, stone/khaki colour palettes and Italian made hats. Sandy and neutral tones in a light-weight linen suit tied with casual military inspired accessories is an essential look this Spring and Summer. Key pieces: safari jackets and linen suits.


Shades of Hue

Whilst there were bright and vibrant bursts of hot pink at Ami and Commes des Garcons runway shows, warm blush tones are set to grow next season. Shades from the mid to pastel end of the spectrum such as the infamous ‘Millennial pink’ set to be a hit. Subtle beige tones and diluted dusty tans and ambers were a predominant trend at this years Pitti Uomo. I recommend a fitted suit in a light linen, accessorizing with gold pieces to balance the neutral palette.


Bloom Boom

Floral prints aren’t just for girls, as seen at Pitti this year. Suits, shirts and accessories featured flowers but not in the way you expected them. A statement pocket square can bring an old suit to life. Gucci have taken this trend to the next level this season, but i see it best utilised in the form of an amazing sports jacket or a stunning printed shirt. 


Crochet Ties

Men’s fashion isn’t always about being sharp and sophisticated. The best looks are sometimes the ones that embrace a little bit of fun and softness. Crochet or knitted ties are a refreshing concept from the usual silk ties, which can be a little too corporate. I have long been a fan of the silk knitted ties, but crochet and Grenadine ties are making a string come back and offer beautiful texture to otherwise plain looking ties.


All Over Tones

One of my favourite trends this season is the layering of the same colour, but in different shades and tones.  It's a tricky one, because you need to make sure the colours you choose compliment your skin tone, but when you get it right, its hot!   

Pitti Uomo #92 - Q&A with Sam Wines

 

Twice a year we see men's Instagram accounts explode with images of the Peacocks of Pitti sporting the latest trends and the best men's tailored suits.  This June, our very own purveyor of style and Carl Navè aficionado Sam Wines attended the biggest men's fashion fare on the planet.  We decided to sit down with Sam and have a chat about his Pitti experience:  

 

CN: Is this your first time to Pitti and what inspired you to go? 

SW: Pitti Uomo is without a doubt the greatest menswear events on the calendar bar none, so naturally I have always wanted to attend! For me it was about being exposed to mens fashion outside the 'Australian bubble'. I wanted to develop a deeper understanding about menswear on a global level and see what the best brands had to offer. Another reason I wanted to attend was to seek inspiration from the droves of imaculately dressed men and women who attended. Honestly, the four days that I attended have done more for my taste and appreciation in fashion than the last four years! 

 

CN: What was the vibe and feel in Florence like during this time?

SW: Florence was busy and bustling as per usual, tourists flock there in droves during the European summer and this year was no exception! The beauty of Italy, and especially Florence, is that most men do dress exceptionally well, so I never felt out of place walking through the streets in either of the bold ensembles you tailored for me for Pitti. Luckily Pitti is held in an old fortress just out of the main city precinct, so it was pretty quiet and easy to get around, until you head inside that is. 

 

CN: How did you feel being a part of it all? 

SW: Absolutely amazing, even though it was smack bang in the middle of a heatwave, it was such an unforgettable experience! It's quite a surreal feeling seeing all the current style icons in one place, especially seeing them all along the Pitti wall. 

 

CN: Can you highlight any men’s trends that excited you

SW: 2018 sparked the return of vintage styles and cuts with a clear temporary twist. That and many of the big fashion houses are taking a more casual approach to tailoring, Brunello Cucinelli and Lardini were definitely at the forefront of both of these trends.

 

CN: It looks like you met a lot people and some big names too, can you share an interesting experiences

SW: During the week I was lucky enough to meet many of the world renound Italian bloggers such as Danilo Carnivale and Frank Gallucci to name a few. I also had a private tour of the MontBlanc leathergoods factory and was lucky enough to get an invite to the exclusive Peroni x GQ dinner that was held in the Tuscan mountains overlooking Florence. Both of which were once in a lifetime experiences from which I am still pinching myself that they even happens! 

 

CN: Has Pitti Uomo changed the way you see men’s fashion in Australia? 

SW: In typical Australian fashion I'll say both yes and no. It has changed the way I personally view fashion in Australia and has made me more confident to wear whatever I want back at home without worrying about judgement.  That being said, Walking around Pitti only reaffirmed my beliefs that. Australia is a few years behind the global market. That being said, Australia was the host nation this year and many of the brands on display were up and coming and have been doing well internationally. 

 

CN: Do you have any style tips or advice for Aussie men?

SW: The 'Aussie' culture up until recently hasn't exactly been the most encouraging when it comes to expressing ones personal flair with clothing. Most Aussie blokes are pretty conservative and as a result, I feel many brands follow suit.  Fortunately now more than ever our culture is embracing the whole look good, feel good do good ethos and as a result, men are starting to care more about what they look like and how they present themselves. So I would say to any Aussie bloke on the fence, caring about your appearance can't get much more fashionable than what it is right now! Express yourself and show your individuality through the way you dress, experiment with things and  most importantly, find your own sense of style that you feel most comfortable with.

 

Here are some great photos of Sam taken on the streets of Florence in and around the Fortezza da Basso and the Pitti Palace where Pitti Uomo is held.  Sam wears a mint green Linen and Silk Sports Jacket with tan Tailored Chinos and white Linen Shirt.  In the accompanying photos Sam also wears a stunning white Pure Linen Double Breasted Suit with baby blue Linen Shirt and Silk Knit Tie.  Both ensembles were created especially for Sam with the Tuscan sun in mind.  Linen and cotton suiting is the perfect option of a relaxed summer elegance.  Photos courtesy of Marroni Photo and Back Street by India

The Overcoat

Designed to be worn over a suit or with more casual attire, the Overcoat is a wardrobe staple throughout the cooler months.  100% Wool and full canvas construction with Cupro lining the Carl Navè Overcoat maintains warmth and exudes elegance.  

The Single breasted version comes with a 3 and a 1/2 Button front and with either a notch or peak lapel.  A Double breasted option is also available .  Similar to the 'Tre Su Due' Business Suit jacket, a 3 and a 1/2 button coat, does up as either a three or a four button if you prefer.  Patch or Flap pockets can be opted for, along with top or pick stitching detail, contrast lining, horn buttons and functioning button holes.  A centre vent is best when creating a custom overcoat, as it keeps the cloth closer to the body maintaining the temperature.

 

The Trench Coat

The Made to Measure Trench Coat by Carl Navè is fully lined and weather proof.  There are 10 button double breasted options available in a large range of cotton and wool gaberdines and can be made with a belt or without.  A pleated centre vent is standard along with epaulets (an ornamental shoulder piece) and sleeve belts to protect you from the cold whilst still looking refined.  An extendable collar tab allows you to do up the up fully or can be discreetly tucked away.

 

The Sports Jacket

The Sports Jacket is designed to be the most versatile item of clothing in your wardrobe.  Whether worn with jeans, cotton chinos, woollen trousers, a shirt and tie or a sweater, the Sports Jacket can be dressed up or down depending on your occasion.  The Carl Navè Sports Jacket is of a soft canvas construction with the absence of shoulder pads.  Patch pockets replace flap pockets and breast pocket detail for a softer less conservative look.  Half lining is often used in order to achieve a soft and more relaxed fit as opposed to the structure that is often seen in business suits. A notch lapel is the preferred for a sports jacket, with the addition of a collar tab and top stitch detailing on all seams. 

Cloth by Fratelli Lanificio Cerruti dal 1881.

 

The Three Piece Suit

The Three Piece Suit is an adaptation of the Carl Navè Cocktail Suit, with many of some the same characteristics and components as the Business Suit.  A Two Button Jacket with broad peak lapels and soft shoulder tailoring.  The peak lapel is sharp with pick stitch detailing around the edges.  All jackets are finished with two flap pockets on either side, and the Barchetta style breast pocket.  Side vents are the preferred option to allow for a taper that is balanced and proportioned. 

The Waistcoat is low cut, has five buttons, is singled breasted and in a U shape.  This is cut to sit on or just above the top button of the jacket, revealing a slight hint that there this a waistcoat but not sacrificing any shirt and tie exposure.  Functioning Welt Pockets are incorporated into the waistcoat, allowing for detailed symmetry and also the use of fob watches for a more classic aesthetic. 

Cloth by Fratelli Lanificio Cerruti dal 1881.

 

The Business Suit

The Carl Navè Classic Business Suit is designed to fit and feel like the best suit you have ever owned.  The jacket is of a full canvas construction with soft, natural shoulders and an 8.5cm notch lapel.  The jacket is a Two and a Half Button, commonly known as the Tre Su Due in Italy.  The jackets has three buttons, but the lapel is designed to roll down to the second button and do up as though it was a two button jacket.  This exposes a lovely little button hole in the lapel roll and allows you to wearing it as three button in the cooler months if you so wish.  The jacket is always cut slightly wider at the shoulders,  and is pinched at the wait for a flattering and slim fit. The jacket falls over the hips and always covers the seat and crotch. Side vents are the preferred option at Carl Navè, which offer a more graceful drape than a single vent. This ensures that the jacket is not strained or wrinkled when you are seated. Pockets are simple with a flap pocket on each side of the jacket with a Barchetta (Boat) style breast pocket, a ticket pocket is also acceptable if the client so desires.  All sleeve button holes are functioning, four is the standard, and a lapel button holes are coupled with a boutonniere loop on the reverse.

The trousers are of a flat front finish, sometimes with a dart in front or pleated options are also available.  Belt loops are replaced with side buckles and adjusters for more relaxed fit.  A 'V' split is sewn into a canvas waistband to allow for ease of moments and to relieve any pressure on the waistband, affectionally known as the "after dinner split" by some Savile Row based tailors. Trousers are always lined to the knee and finished with a cuff or plainly depending on your preference. 

Cloth by Fratelli Lanificio Cerruti dal 1881.

 

Everyone needs a festival

Thank you to the City of Melbourne for the feature in their May edition of City News.

MAY 2016

For a long time now women have dominated the world of clothes, beauty and personal grooming.

Not content to let women grab all the attention, a group of small business owners from Melbourne’s City Precinct put their heads together and came up with a novel way to cater to the shopping needs of men – The Festival of Steve.

The City Precinct is one of eight trader associations funded by the City of Melbourne, whose 140 plus members are all boutique, or niche businesses, often located above awnings or down laneways, rather than on the main streets.

City Precinct Vice President and bespoke tailor, Carl Nave, said their group was looking for a way to promote the variety and quality of men’s fashion, grooming and entertainment found in their precinct, when they realised few events catered specifically to men.

The Festival of Steve, now in its fourth year, is an example of what can be achieved when precinct members work together towards a common goal.

‘It’s all about men’s style and grooming’, said Carl. ‘Men don’t shop in the same way as women, so we’ve created a non-threatening social environment. There are pool tournaments and poker tournaments and all sorts of things. It’s all about supporting local businesses and the people who like spending at local businesses’.

This year’s Festival of Steve will be held at Taxi Riverside, Federation Square, on 28 May, 11am to 6pm.

 

 

Man of Style - Sam Wines

A few months ago I had the pleasure of meeting of very dapper Sam Wines, we got to talking about what we do, and decided that it would be fun to work together.  The following post is the beautiful outcome (in my opinion) of our collaboration.

Carl Navè × Man of Style

MARCH 23, 2016

After two months in the making, I am excited to be able to finally share the imagery from my collaboration with bespoke tailor - Carl Navè. After meeting Carl at an event for Spring Racing last year, we both agreed that collaborating was a must. Within a few weeks, Carl invited me to his studio where we caught up over an espresso and began to plan my individually tailored suit. After flicking through countless fabric samples, we settled upon a grey glenplaid cloth with a fine blue detailing from Lanificio Cerruti dal 1881. I opted for a single breasted jacket with peaked lapels, a ticket pocket and functioning buttons on the cuff. I opted for a fully lined suit with paisley detailing and my initials woven into the inner left breast. Naturally, with the suit pants I went for a cuff with a single break to show a bit of ankle or sock depending on the time of year. Finally, the shirting. I went for a classic oxford with a cutaway collar in blue, as well as a collar pin oxford in white and both finished off with french cuffs - just the way I like it. 

After 4 weeks I came back in for a round of fittings, and Carl and I began to plan our shoot. In addition to our collaboration, we then decided to team up with a range of boutique businesses from Melbourne's own  City Precinct. These small, independent retailers that are featured below are scattered throughout the heart of Melbourne. Some are found down alleyways, others hidden in basements. All of which have a unique story to tell. So, if you have seen anything you like, it's definitely worth checking out the City Precinct website for more information on some of these local brands and any of their upcoming events! 

Carl Navè - Look 1

Carl Navé - Look 2 

Carl Navè -  Look 3 

All imagery from the three looks above is shot by Grace Petrou with her Cannon 5D MkIII whilst all imagery from Carl's studio is shot by Jake O'Donnell and his Nikon D7200. 

I hope you enjoyed this collaboration just as much as I did! 

- Sam 

TRENDING SUIT CUTS AND SILHOUETTES

Talk to your tailor about what styles and cuts work best with your proportions and how you can incorporate elements of a trend in to your wedding day look without going all Derek Zoolander.

THE ONE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED

Fitted shoulders and a cropped length contemporises a classic style from the 1950’s.  Today’s double-breasted suit forgoes the wide boxy shoulders and loose body shape for something far more flattering and minimal.  Trousers are seen with single pleats but the leg is still narrow, which works well on tall, lean body shapes. This look is quite a directional for 2016 so only the brave should dare to wear.

THE RELAXED DAY SUIT

Smart and dapper yet uncomplicated and comfortable, the day suit is a combination of mismatched garments that come together to show some real sprezzatura, the Italian word for a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.

Here we see a number of cuts executed beautifully:  Single breasted jackets in a one button, two buttons and a three-button in both peak and notch lapels ooze cool whilst the double breasted jacket with wide peak lapels and six buttons look elegant paired with knitwear, contrast tapered trousers and sand shoes or brogues.  Not necessarily the most traditional bridal ensemble, however these silhouettes work on most body shapes and can be incorporated with almost any cloth to achieve a similar look.

THE DANDY

The Dandy has been around for some time now; it’s all about excess, accessories and flare.  Lapels are sharp or exaggerated, bodies are slim and the details are big.  As we move into autumn, layering up becomes more of necessity and texture become more and more prevalent.

Accessories like hats, gloves, lapel pins and scarves are a great way to embellish your wedding suit to make it really memorable.  We’ve moved beyond the tie and pocket square now boys, it’s time to raise the bar and really own your style.

THE WAISTCOAT

Whether you’re wearing a business, lounge suit, sports jacket or tuxedo, there’s always room for the waistcoat.  Probably this year’s biggest trend in men’s suiting, the waistcoat, or vest, or gilet (whatever you choose to call it) has purpose.

A three-piece suit always provides options, and flexibility, but it’s the contrast waistcoat that is having the most impact, particularly in varying colours, textures and patterns and in some cases even cut all together.  Pairing a double-breasted waistcoat under a single-breasted jacket is the way to wear it, and if you’re really game, opt for a lapel on the waistcoat for a real point of difference.

Sally and Lewis - Yarra Valley

Sally and Lewis were married on a picturesque day in January at Stones of The Yarra Valley.

Lewis and his groomsmen wore pure wool super 130s French navy suits.

As you can see by the photos the day reflected the couples elegance and lighthearted air. Congratulations to the beautiful bride and groom.

Melbourne Cup 2015

This year’s Melbourne Cup was one of the most exciting to be involved in.

I was invited to attend Pre Melbourne Cup Breakfast at Mon Bijou, Adelphi Hotel thanks to @hellreizer.

For this event I was given the honor of dressing Corey “Homicide: Williams @phaymusnobii.

Corey was a pleasure to work with; making him look dapper was an easy task.

Megan Gale and Corey had something in common…. Green for the money and gold for the honey.

The morning was full of excitement – I was even able to hold the 2014 winners cup.